June 21 marks the official start of my favorite season… summer!!  Along with summer’s awesome weather, outdoor activities, leisure travel, and trips to the beach or pool can come bad hair days. Before you invest in 3 months worth of hats, perhaps some of these tips will help.

The most important step in any summer haircare routine is determining the environment. If you live in a hot, humid climate, you may encounter different issues, such as swelling and frizz requiring anti-humidity products, from someone who resides in a hot, arid climate where combating dryness is the prime concern requiring highly moisturizing products. Environment aside, there are some universal habits the will help protect your hair from extreme heat and sun exposure regardless of your location; like deep conditioning frequently, layering conditioning and/or SPF enriched products and reducing heat styling. This is also the perfect time of year to try out some heatless, textured styles from soft beachy waves to a full on afro. This season there are lots of chic and adventurous looks to experiment with, from top knots and buns, bohemian braids and twists, to the classic high or low ponytail, there are a ton of great go to looks you can add to your arsenal of no stress styles to try throughout the season.

One of the main culprits in hair damage during summer can be extended periods of exposure to pool water or visits to the beach, below I’ve compiled some tips to prepare your hair for a day of water fun both before and after you take a dip.

Things To Know Before You Go In The Water:

Ocean water – The main risk with ocean water is salt water drying on hair. The salt residue can withdraw hair’s moisture and make it feel dry and brittle. For this reason I HIGHLY recommend always rinsing hair and body immediately post swim.

Swimming Pool water– The general risk with swimming pools is the chlorine content, chlorine can affect hair by dissolving the sebum or oil that keeps the cuticle layers together giving your hair that “fried” look. The other concern is the higher acidity of pool water which for a well maintained pool is typically ph level 7 while your hairs ideal ph is 4.5-5.5.

1. Protect your hair before swimming by aiming to minimize the amount of salt or chlorinated water being absorbed by your hair. One of the simplest and most commonly used techniques includes thoroughly wetting your hair before you get into he pool (give it 15 minutes to fully absorb), because once hair reaches it’s full saturation point it limits the amount of additional absorption, note that this technique requires you to rinse and repeat frequently throughout the day. You can also create a “barrier” by wetting and then liberally coating the hair with a penetrating or heavy oil; such as coconut oil, shea butter, Jamaican Black castor oil, mineral oil, or a silicone based serum. Some swimmers also like to apply hair conditioner but in my opinion, this is not an effective barrier as most hair conditioners are highly soluble in water and will rinse out shortly after exposure, read all the tips for a more effective use for conditioner post-swim.

2. Further Minimize Damage by preparing your hair before swimming; if you have straight or loosely waved hair you can generally swim with your hair loose, for those with highly textured hair, consider braiding or bunning your hair so your strands don’t become tangled during your swim.

3. Wear a swim cap. While swim caps, in general, cannot keep all water away from hair, they do protect hair from becoming fully saturated. Note: For swimmers wearing extensions or with locs, try “My Swim Cap” it is a larger cap that will accommodate more voluminous styles http://myswimstuff.com/products/my-swim-cap. 

4. Take care of your hair immediately post swim. Take the time to really rinse your hair after swimming. Rinsing is underestimated but I can’t emphasize enough how much it helps get rid of a lot of chlorine/salt water before it has a chance to dry or bind to your hair. If there is no “shower” or water source available, bring along a jug of water specifically for the purpose of rinsing your hair. I also recommend preparing a spray bottle with a 50/50 or 30/70 conditioner and water mix to spray liberally into the hair until you can properly shampoo and condition it.

5. Post swim, thoroughly shampoo and condition your hair with the best product you have. Aim to use gentle products if you are a regular swimmer and regularly clarify (once every month) if you use heavy oils to protect your hair. It’s important to use a shampoo that gets rid of chlorine and mineral build up. If your regular shampoo contains EDTA or Phytic Acid it will provide thorough enough cleansing. If your regular shampoo doesn’t contain EDTA or Phytic Acid, try this:

Surfs up! Have a great summer!

So, you’ve decided to take the plunge and color your hair. Yay, for you not being afraid of change! Hair color is an awesome way to update or refresh your look whether it’s to cover unwanted gray or create a complete style transformation. Consult with your stylist to create the best course of action to obtain your desired result. Whether you want all over color, ombre, balayage or highlights, remember that there is a safe way to achieve any look, and a licensed hairstylist can help you determine the proper course of action for your hair type.

After you get your hair done, here are some tips for things you can do at home to maintain your new do!

1. Shampoo your hair less frequently: Shampooing too frequently can leach the color from your hair making it appear dull and dry. Most stylists agree it is not necessary to shampoo your hair everyday, and once you’re used to skipping a shampoo most people realize that 2nd day hair can be great to work with. If you have straight or very loosely waved hair shampoo 2-3 times a week and if necessary refresh on your off days by flipping hair over and spraying a dry shampoo at the roots to soak up oil.  Most ethnic or highly textured hair, naturally, tends toward the drier end of the spectrum due to the inability of the scalp’s sebum to travel the length of the curls and coils from root to tip. This dryness can be exacerbated by any chemical treatment so when extremely curly hair is colored it should be shampooed no more than once a week, unless you are swimming or engaging in high impact activities that require more frequent shampooing. If you can’t go a full week in between shampoos, you can opt to switch between co-washing (cleansing hair with conditioner, or a conditioning cleanser like Wen) and shampooing followed by a deep conditioning treatment.

2. Use a sulfate free or color-protecting shampoo: These shampoos are specifically formulated to be both gentle and protective of your color. Steer clear of clarifying shampoos, which can be harsh and stripping, except on the day before your color appointment when they can be used to remove heavy oils and product buildup, silicones, waxes, and hairspray resins. If your hair is excessively coated in product when the color is applied, instead of penetrating the hair shaft, some of the dye may attach itself to those coatings and then wash out, making your color fade faster.”

3. Stick to lukewarm or cooler water and avoid excessive rinsing in the shower: Heat makes haircolor leach faster, so the hotter the water, the quicker the color loss. I recommend room temperature water and a cold water rinse to close the cuticle and add shine. Also, once you’ve shampooed and conditioned, don’t tilt your head back and let the water just run over it for several minutes as this will also rinse away and dull your color over time.

4. Protect blonde hues and highlights with a purple toning shampoo: Strange as it may sound, purple shampoo keeps your hair color from turning brassy, which can happen with other shampoos that aren’t specifically formulated for blonde hair.

5. Think twice about becoming a redhead: Although, red shades are frequently chosen for their beautiful vibrancy, red dye’s large-size molecules leach out more quickly than those of any other hue. I don’t want to dissuade you from choosing that beautiful auburn, deep scarlet or coppery highlight, but keep in mind that reds require more frequent touch ups in order to maintain their vibrancy.

How do I know if my hair is “healthy”?  This is a question everyone, including your stylist, may answer differently.  In my opinion, healthy hair is most easily achieved by having a balanced diet and a good maintenance regimen.  There is no specific prescription for healthy hair, but I help my clientele to maintain their beautiful natural, relaxed, weaved, and/ or color treated styles by regularly trimming their ends, educating them about the correct products to use to keep their hair and scalp cleansed, moisturized and free from negative buildup, and having regular consultations to improve their personal knowledge of their own hair type and maintenance requirements.  If you are not sure about your level of hair health, I have devised a few short “tests” that will help you identify any issues and help address them:

1. Does your hair shed excessively? Through natural renewal, we all lose 50-100 hairs a day, if you are seeing more than that in your comb, brush or down your drain your hair may be reacting to stress from any number of factors ranging from improper combing/ detangling techniques, extreme heat or even exposure to certain medications or medical issues.  The good news is most causes of shedding can be treated without resulting to an extreme haircut when handled as soon as the issue arises.

2.  When you examine a single hair from root to ends, does it feather, divide or split at any point and if pulled gently does it break or chip?  A healthy strand of hair should be strong, smooth and uniform in size from root to end, curly or ethnic hair differs because it may be slightly thinner along the shaft where it coils and/or bends, but if you see breaks or splits in the hair you may need a trim or strengthening/ conditioning treatment.

3. Does your hair appear or feel dry after you’ve shampooed, conditioned and applied styling aids?  If your hair is excessively dry you may be using the wrong type of products or too much heat and you may require treatment to correct a moisture imbalance issue. In addition to proper products and styling, you can hydrate your strands by eating foods rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and iron. Choose salmon, sardines, nuts, avocados, and flaxseeds for healthy shiny hair. Drink plenty of water, staying hydrated prevents your hair from drying out. Avoid smoking, the smoke from cigarettes can end up damaging and drying out your hair.

4. I’ve done EVERYTHING I can, including getting a trim and my hair still looks/ feels damaged?!?! This may be an indication that you have an issue with porosity. Porosity is an indicator of how damaged your hair is. The “pores” are really tiny cracks in the protein structure that weaken hair’s natural defenses. Porous hair has increased moisture loss, lower natural lipid content, and is more prone to breakage and split ends. Porosity is dramatically increased by chemical processing such as perming, relaxing, coloring, or bleaching the hair. A 2008 study showed that even just one minute exposure to hair bleach caused a significant number of pores to open in the hair.

Porosity Test: Fill a glass or bowl with room temperature water.Take a couple strands of your clean hair and put them in the water. Clean hair is important. If you have oils or products on your hair, it will alter your results. Watch it for 2-4 minutes. If your hair sinks immediately, it has high porosity.

Unfortunately, once hair becomes porous, there’s not much you can do to physically reverse the damage. However, using a good conditioner and frequent deep conditioning treatments can provide temporary relief. Deep conditioning using the indirect heat of a hooded dryer or steamer to open the cuticles will allow the moisture to penetrate the hair shaft and reinforce some of the fissures. If you are at home and don’t have a hooded dryer, you can apply your conditioner and processing cap then use a blow dryer to heat your conditioner while it is on your hair. Use lighter styling products, because reducing build up is key. I also like to recommend following a deep conditioning with dimethicone containing leave in conditioners because they’re effective at trapping the moisture inside the hair.

5. Does your hair appear dull, dry, lank or lifeless? If your hair is straight or loosely waved, consider a deep conditioner after every wash for a while. The same is suggested for curly or kinky hair types, but you can also try use heavier butters and oils like shea butter and olive oil to seal in moisture. Also consider your hair’s pH balance. You want to incorporate products with low pH, which means ones that are acidic. This will help flatten the cuticle and also seal in moisture, when your cuticle is closed it will reflect light hence making hair appear shiny. Other things to try are adding aloe vera gel or juice to your leave-in conditioner or spray bottle mixtures. You can also add 1/3 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar to 1 liter of water as a rinse after washing your hair. This mixture will detoxify any pollution in the hair and seal the cuticle making your hair appear smooth, shiny and full.

DaStylist Tip:  As with anything, patience and good everyday practices will always be your best route back to a healthy head of hair, because an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! However, if you’ve run the gamut of home remedies and your hair is not responding, it may be time to visit a professional for further assistance. The longer a hair issue is allowed to go unaddressed the greater the likelihood of having long term damage.